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Insulation Calculator — Batts, Rolls & R-Value Needed

By the Linear Feet Calculator Team | Reviewed by insulation contractors and energy auditors | Updated June 2026

Insulation is sold by the bag or bundle with a stated square foot coverage, but the number that governs the job is the R-value your climate zone and cavity depth call for. This calculator sizes the order and shows what R-value your assembly can physically hold.

Framing first? Size studs with the Stud Calculator.

Insulation Calculator

Enter the area to insulate and choose your cavity depth and product type.

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Recommended R-Values by Climate Zone

US Department of Energy guidance. Higher zone numbers are colder climates requiring more insulation.

Climate Zone Example Region Attic (uninsulated) Attic (has 3–4 in) Floor
Zone 1South Florida, HawaiiR-30R-25R-13
Zone 2Gulf Coast, S. TexasR-49R-38R-13
Zone 3N. Florida, Georgia, ArizonaR-49R-38R-19
Zone 4A & 4BVirginia, Kansas, TennesseeR-60R-49R-19
Zone 4C, 5, 6Oregon, Illinois, MinnesotaR-60R-49R-30
Zone 7 & 8N. Minnesota, N. Maine, AlaskaR-60R-49R-38

Source: EPA ENERGY STAR recommended insulation levels for retrofitting existing wood-framed buildings, based on the 2021 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) Residential Provisions, Chapter 4, Table R402.1.3. Note that the recommended attic value depends on what is already there — an uninsulated attic targets a higher figure than one that already holds 3–4 inches.

Wall and Basement Insulation Recommendations

ENERGY STAR frames existing-wall guidance around adding insulative sheathing when siding comes off, rather than around batt R-values. This is the relevant table for a retrofit.

Assembly Zone 3 Zone 4A & 4B Zone 4C & 5–8
Uninsulated wood-frame wallBlow cavity + R-5 sheathingBlow cavity + R-5 to R-10Blow cavity + R-5 to R-10
Already-insulated 2×4 wall—Add R-10 sheathingAdd R-10 sheathing
Basement / crawlspace wallR-5 sheathing or R-13 battR-10 sheathing or R-13 battR-15 sheathing or R-19 batt

Cavity batt values for new framing differ from these retrofit recommendations: a 2×4 cavity physically accepts R-13 to R-15 and a 2×6 cavity accepts R-19 to R-21. Use the cavity-depth table further down this page when framing new walls, and the table above when re-siding an existing house.

Attic work gives the best return in almost every climate, because the ceiling plane is where the largest share of heat loss occurs in a typical house. Walls are far harder to upgrade once siding and drywall are in place.

Insulation Type Comparison

Type R per Inch Cost per Sq Ft Best For Drawback
Fiberglass battR-3.1 to R-3.4$0.40–$1.00New framing, DIY wallsGaps if poorly fitted
Mineral wool battR-3.7 to R-4.2$0.90–$1.80Sound, fire resistanceHigher cost, heavier
Blown-in fiberglassR-2.2 to R-2.7$0.60–$1.30Attics, retrofitSettles over time
Blown-in celluloseR-3.2 to R-3.8$0.70–$1.50Attics, dense-pack wallsMoisture sensitive
Open-cell spray foamR-3.5 to R-3.8$1.20–$2.50Odd cavities, air sealingRequires pro install
Closed-cell spray foamR-6.0 to R-7.0$1.80–$4.50Max R in thin cavity, rim joistsHighest cost
Rigid foam board (XPS)R-5.0$0.80–$1.80Basement walls, exteriorSeams need taping
Rigid polyiso boardR-5.6 to R-6.5$1.00–$2.20Roof, exterior sheathingPerformance drops when cold

What R-Value Fits in a Cavity

Cavity depth limits achievable R-value with batt insulation. Compressing a batt reduces its rated performance.

Framing Actual Depth Fiberglass Batt Mineral Wool Closed-Cell Foam
2 × 4 wall3-1/2 inR-13 to R-15R-15R-21 to R-24
2 × 6 wall5-1/2 inR-19 to R-21R-23R-33 to R-38
2 × 8 joist7-1/4 inR-25R-30R-43 to R-50
2 × 10 joist9-1/4 inR-30R-38R-55 to R-64
2 × 12 joist11-1/4 inR-38R-45R-67 to R-78
Attic (blown, open)UnlimitedR-38 at 13 in——

Never compress a batt to fit a shallower cavity. An R-19 batt squeezed into a 2×4 wall delivers roughly R-13, so you pay for R-19 and receive R-13. Buy the batt rated for the cavity you actually have.

Common Insulation Mistakes

Compressing Batts Into Undersized Cavities

R-value depends on trapped air, and compressing a batt removes exactly that. Forcing R-19 into a 2×4 bay yields about R-13 while costing more than the correct R-13 batt would have. Buy the product rated for your actual cavity depth, and if you need more R than the cavity allows, add continuous rigid foam over the framing instead.

Leaving Gaps Around Wiring and Boxes

Fiberglass performance collapses at gaps, because air moves through the void and bypasses the insulation entirely. Split the batt around wires rather than compressing it behind them, and cut carefully around electrical boxes. A wall with 10% of its area poorly fitted loses well over 10% of its rated performance, because air moves through the gaps instead of being stopped by them.

Insulating Without Air Sealing First

Insulation slows conductive heat transfer but does almost nothing to stop air movement. Top plates, can lights, plumbing penetrations, and the attic hatch all leak air straight through a bed of insulation. Sealing those penetrations with foam and caulk before insulating typically delivers more comfort improvement per dollar than the insulation itself.

Blocking Soffit Vents in the Attic

Pushing insulation out to the eaves blocks the soffit vents that ventilate the roof deck, which leads to moisture accumulation and ice damming in cold climates. Install baffles at each rafter bay to hold the insulation back and keep a clear air channel from soffit to ridge. This is a code requirement in most jurisdictions, not merely good practice.

About these price ranges

Pricing varies widely by region, season, project size, and site conditions. Treat every figure on this page as a planning estimate for budgeting only — not as a quote. Coastal metro markets commonly run 20–40% above national ranges while rural inland markets can fall 10–20% below. Always collect at least three written quotes from local contractors before committing to a budget.

Sourced figures: EPA ENERGY STAR recommended R-values (based on 2021 IECC Table R402.1.3).

Unsourced estimates: All per-square-foot material prices and bundle coverage figures. These are informed planning figures rather than data drawn from a published price index, and they carry a correspondingly wider margin of error.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much insulation do I need for a 1000 square foot attic?
For R-38 blown-in fiberglass you need about 25 bags, since each bag covers roughly 40 square feet at that depth. For R-49 in a cold climate, budget about 32 bags. In batt form, R-38 batts cover 48–64 square feet per bundle depending on width, so plan on 16–21 bundles for 1,000 square feet.
What R-value do I need?
ENERGY STAR bases its retrofit guidance on climate zone and on what insulation is already present. For an uninsulated attic the target is R-30 in Zone 1, R-49 in Zones 2 and 3, and R-60 in Zones 4 through 8. If the attic already holds 3 to 4 inches, the targets drop to R-25, R-38, and R-49 respectively. Floors over unconditioned space range from R-13 in Zone 1 to R-38 in Zones 7 and 8. These figures follow the 2021 IECC Table R402.1.3.
How many square feet does a bundle of insulation cover?
It varies by R-value and width, so always check the bundle label. R-13 batts for 2×4 walls typically cover 88 square feet per bundle at 15-inch width, or 106 sq ft at 23-inch width. R-15 covers about 77 sq ft, and R-21 for 2×6 walls covers about 49 sq ft per bundle. Higher R-value means thicker batts and fewer per bundle.
Can I put R-19 insulation in a 2x4 wall?
You can physically force it in, but you should not. A 2×4 cavity is 3.5 inches deep and an R-19 batt is 6.25 inches thick. Compressed into that space it delivers approximately R-13 — the same as the correct R-13 batt, at a higher price. Buy the batt rated for your cavity depth.
Is spray foam worth the extra cost?
Closed-cell spray foam costs two to four times what fiberglass batts cost but delivers R-6 to R-7 per inch against fiberglass at R-3.1 to R-3.4, and it air seals as it expands. It earns its price in rim joists, cathedral ceilings, and any cavity too shallow to reach target R-value with batts. For standard open framing with good access, batts plus careful air sealing give better value.
Should I air seal before insulating?
Yes, always. Insulation resists conductive heat transfer but does very little to stop air movement, and air leakage is often the larger loss in an older house. Seal top plates, recessed light housings, plumbing and wiring penetrations, and the attic access hatch with foam and caulk before adding insulation. This sequence typically returns more comfort per dollar than the insulation alone.
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